22 Feb 2025
This was an amazing life experience: four days on a series of rivers with opportunities to see beautiful jungle scenery, while stopping at many small towns, viewing wildlife such as dolphins and birds, and seeing some of the locals who live in small homes along the river and who came out to greet the ferry in small boats while it passed. At night, from the forward deck, there was opportunity to view a stunning star-scape, unaffected by ambient light.
I opted for an air conditioned cabin, while some guests opted for hammocks on the open covered deck. The decks are very congested with many people in close quarters, so if you want privacy, some semblance of quiet, your own bathroom, plus the ability to better safeguard your belongings, I'd suggest paying extra for a cabin. Tourist guests sleeping in hammocks were cautioned by ferry staff to closely watch their belongings, stored out in the open on wooden pallets beside the hammocks, as petty theft was apparently not uncommon.
This is a passenger/cargo ferry, so do not expect luxury. My cabin had a bunk bed and tiny attached bathroom, and a remote controlled air conditioning unit near the ceiling. The linens on the bed consisted of a fitted sheet on each mattress, and a pillow case on each pillow. That's it. No additional sheet, blanket, towel or other items such as soap/shampoo. Ferry staff will provide additional toilet paper, upon request.
Meals were provided in a small cafeteria on the ferry, and were basic but filling. The cost was 10 R for breakfast, and 25 R each for lunch and dinner (60 R/day for all three meals). On the ferry I was on, the Itaberabe I, only cash or PIX was accepted as payment for meals. No credit cards. However, the ferry also had a small canteen where guests could purchase snacks, beverages including alcoholic drinks, and some toiletries. Here, payment by credit card was an option.
I booked my four day ferry ride from Manaus to Belem through TripAdvisor, with Amazon Amazing Tours (AAT) as the provider. They made my ferry booking for me, provided transport from my Airbnb to the port, and paid the cash port fee. But aside from this, they didn't do much to earn the surcharge for booking with them via TripAdvisor.
The TripAdvisor listing says that an English/Portuguese guide would be provided. AAT provided a driver who did not speak English, dropped off guests beside the ferry, and left. At check-in on the ferry, the ferry personnel were looking for a ticket or voucher from me, and would not accept my TripAdvisor voucher. It was only through the assistance of another bilingual traveler that this was sorted out, and I was able to obtain access to my cabin. It would have been helpful to have the AAT 'guide' stay and assist guests through the check-in process, rather than leaving them to fend for themselves.
In hindsight, now having gone through the process and completed the ferry trip, I would recommend buying a ferry ticket directly from the ferry company (AR Transporte) at the port, at much less cost, and arranging for an Uber or taxi for transportation from hotel/accommodation to the port. Don't forget the port fee of 5 reales, paid in cash, to enter the port.
If I could rate the overall experience separately, it would be 4.5/5.
If I could rate Amazon Amazing Tours separately, it would be 1.5/5.