05 Sep 2023
My sister and I spent two wonderful days with Julian of Arctic Exped, going to Kerlingarfjoll one day and the South Coast the next. He was an experienced outdoorsman who spoke English fluently--also, apparently Dutch if you're into that--who was very funny and fun and a font of knowledge about Iceland and its landscape. We faced the usual weather concerns and Julian was very deft at pivoting our itinerary based on what would be the most special and beautiful experiences to avoid getting us stuck and waylaid by weather. The Kerlingarfjoll day was truly special. I cannot recommend that tour enough. It is one of the most breathtaking, strange, uniquely colored mountains we had ever seen. We detoured to a glacier in the highlands en route and were the only ones there. In Iceland. In August. We had actually booked another tour instead of Kerlingarfjoll but due to gale force winds and rain bearing down on the original itinerary, we switched to Kerlingarfjoll and we felt so lucky at the end of the day that we went there instead. The second day on the South Coast he took us to a stunning black sand beach and we were once again the only people there. We also stopped at the of course mobbed Reynisfjara beach later that day and while it was beautiful and mobbed for a reason, the stop at the other beach, which we had all to ourselves, was so special and more profound, with the Westman Islands rising in the mist off shore. It was so atmospheric and mysterious. He also took us to a magical canyon on the edge of Thorsmark that was straight out of a fairy tale and we encountered only a handful of other travelers. I have nothing against other travelers being one myself, but Julian managed repeatedly to find us solace and quiet and we really communed with Iceland's wondrous landscape. We really enjoyed his company and his music choices and he accommodated our personal obsessions with turf houses and moss. He was also really good at helping us plan the trip before we left home and always answered emails promptly. (We were trying to decide between Arctic Exped and another company and the other company took ten days to get back to us. Julian sometimes answered questions within ten minutes. I was indecisive because it was hard to choose between the captivating destinations on offer and he humored my waffling and helped me decide where to go). Arctic Exped is a gem.