(Rome) we drive through fields of selomila wheat, green leafy plants, dogs sniffing for truffles, hazelnut and olive trees. Peter, our driver from our previous RomeIn Limo trip to Rome, does not remember us from last year, although we recognize him right away. He is the reason we booked with this company again. The curvature of the landscape and the winding ribbon of road, quickly tests all of our driving comfort. We arrive outside the Civeta de Bagnoregio after about an hour of driving. The city of Bagnoregio was an island fortress, over 2,000 years ago when it was built. Since its birth, the sea has completely disappeared and lush mountains and valleys surround the once island. Now we walk through the valley of air that was the sea. The foundation is slowly eroding away, falling victim to gravity’s effect on the topography of the land. A small army of Chinese tourists accidentally jam the coin operated bathrooms located at the top of the parking lot. There is a second coin operated bathroom under the bridge.
The air is cool, almost cold, as we start our trek across the long pedestrian bridge to the old city. The pedestrian bridge spans over 3,000 meters. Roman cities built on rocky mountain tops are located in numerous places in Italy.
Bagnoregio is a dying city. There are 11 official citizens. Only those who live there are allowed to stay. Years ago a decision was made that no new citizens could purchase property. When a citizen dies, the population shrinks. Most of the buildings are vacant when we arrive. There are a number that are dedicated to small touristy shops and restaurants, and a few B&B’s that are closed for the season. The streets a quiet and peaceful. We see a number of cats sunning themselves on the stone walls.
Looking over the vistas around the whole city is idyllic. It is exactly the image we all have in our heads about what Italy should look like; stone pathways and buildings, potted flowers, weeping Wisteria, rolling green fields, even a few old Italians talking on a stoop together. It is picture perfect, a feast for our eyes. The stone walls and roads have hosted pedestrian traffic since its creation. We take lots of pictures.
Our next destination is Orvieto, another Roman built city on the top of a rocky vista. The jewel of the town is the famous Dumo cathedral, constructed in black and white striped walls. The cathedral was initially built sometime in the 12th century, on top of a previous worship building that had fallen into disrepair. The cathedral was under construction for about 300 years, with adjustments and replacements continuing to this day. The Romanesque cathedral is a beauty to behold. I believe it is the most beautiful cathedral I have ever seen. The front facing facades glitter gold in the sunlight. The ornate twisted columns are meticulously crafted and decorated with mosaic tiles. It is a jewel.
We wandered through the streets and found an artisan olive wood shop and bought several items. While there, the owner talked to us about a local restaurant with carbonara. Regional food is a big deal in Italy. We remembered Tony (our RomeIn Limo guide from Napoli) had said that Orvieto is known for the carbonara. We jumped at the chance to go to a local restaurant.
The La Mezza Luna restaurant was located in a building that is a little more than a paved cave. Three family members spoke little English but were warm and welcoming. The fully Italian worded menu had few clues but carbonara was easily discernible. We ate without reservation. The carbonara will not soon be forgotten.
Towards the end of the day, I wanted to see St Peters Well. An ancient well with double helix staircases. After purchasing tickets, we walked over to the unassuming entrance. With over 200 steps, we strolled down and back up again. The depth and architecture of the well was revolutionary.
Fantastic experience all around with Rome In Limo. We used them for a private tour in Rome while on a Med cruise in 2014. After such a wonderful experience back then, we knew they were who we wanted to book with while on our 2023 cruise. I was looking for a day tour to get us, away from Rome, on the day we disembarked. I booked a private tour with RIL to Orvieto and Civita Bagnoregio. All communication was prompt, responsive, and courteous - thank you, Jany! Marco was our driver for the day and we was great! He lives locally and is so knowledgeable and passionate about the area. We met Marco right outside the cruise port in Civitavecchia and headed to Orvieto first. Once there, we bought tickets and toured the church, walked around the cute streets of the town, and then bought tickets to tour the underground caves. The tour lasted about 45 minutes and was so interesting! Marco was instrumental in ensuring we had what we needed and provided information on where to go. After that, we headed for Civita Bagnoregio. Wow! The views of this town are breathtaking. Warning, the hike across the bridge and up to the town is strenuous. Marco had a table reserved at a charming restaurant located in the town. After lunch we spend time walking around the very cute and charming streets. Great experience - highly recommend!