03 Apr 2024
We decided on a 2-day tour of Huayna Potosi with Jiwaki because of the low price and the good reviews and were very satisfied with the organization, accommodation (basic shared room), condition of the equipment (e.g. Petzl crampons and helmet), food and the tour itself. However, we would like to point out at this point that although the guides are trained mountain guides, they do not have internationally recognized certificates (in our experience, a UIAGM guide can be requested for $100 a day, but contrary to our hopes, this did not add any additional benefit in terms of safety and the climb) and often give the impression that the climb is not dangerous. There is hardly any mention of acute altitude sickness here (although participants often suffer from serious altitude sickness), and no questions are asked about preparation, acclimatization or previous experience. Of course, Huayna Potosi is one of the easier 6000m peaks, but it is still a high-altitude tour that requires at least basic experience on the glacier, as some passages have to be climbed or are very narrow and steep. Good physical fitness and sufficient acclimatization (at least a week above 3500-4000m) are also definitely necessary.
Unfortunately, during the ascent, our guides hardly took the needs and different levels of the participants into account and did not choose the ascent tactics particularly wisely (e.g. rest areas, paying attention to other groups and the narrow passages).
In our opinion (we already have experience of high-altitude tours and are trained high-altitude physicians), the ascent is often taken too lightly. Beginners to high-altitude tours in particular should weigh up the risks carefully and, if necessary, start with easier tours or gain experience with ice training over several days.