09 Jul 2025
This is by far the most amazing trip to see Mayan ruins I have ever taken in Mexico, if you are up for some climbing, lots of travel, and some absolutely breathtaking sites, go on this trip to Yaxchilan and Bonampak!
I was solo, but made a ton of friends on the trip. It helped that I spoke spanish, as there are not so many US tourists in this part of Mexico. As a bonus, you get to do something few others from your home will have the opportunity to experience. Note that although the driver does not always speak english, the overall idea of the trip is very simple. You can hire an english speaking guide for either or both sites (note they do charge, this trip is for some meals, extensive transportation logistics and entry fees). Pay your guides well and tip the driver, they need and deserve that money.
The trip is from Palenque and starts early in the day. You may not be able to sleep on the van due to road conditions and automatic transmission (no to topos!). After an hour and a half, you stop for breakfast which has eggs, meat, tortillas, beans, and fresh fruit and juices, along with a restroom break. Then another hour and a half to Frontera Corozal, the only access point to Yaxchilan, which is on a peninsula surrounded by the river and a forest reserve (no roads). You stop at the lunch place to make your order before heading to the harbor. That boat follows the river with Guatemala on the other side for about 30 minutes and is exhilarating.
Yaxchilan is straight up Indiana Jones vibes, you enter the city through a maze labyrinth that has some friendly bats. Bring lots of bug spray, organic local versions are best but need to be reapplied every 45 minutes or so. The structures are incredible and feel very much like you stumbled upon a lost city in the dense jungle. They have a ball court, stelae, and great pyramids with unique design elements. Not sure I loved going up to the second acropolis, it was quite difficult climb in the heat and humidity and steep coming down. Maybe spend your time exploring the maze and other structures near the main plaza and climb the pyramid. Then it is back to the boats after two hours at the site (which fly by) and an amazing homecooked lunch at a local restaurant. Have the mole chiapaneco, the local mole variety that is outrageously good.
Back in the van for not quite an hour and you are at Bonampak, which has the best preserved murals in the Mayan world. They are breathtakingly beautiful and intact. Pay for the local guide here, 1000% worth learning what is going on in each of the paintings and their significance. Amazing giant stelae, multiple layers of construction on the pyramid unveiled and the lintels are outstanding. The local Mayan guides are great. Try to support the community with a few pesos by buying bracelets and necklaces, they are inexpensive, made with local products, and help people who deserve it. Trip back to hotel is several hours, expect to be back around 8pm.