Xanthos Ancient City, Saklikent Canyon en Patara Beach van Kalkan Kas

I would have to say I am totally prejudiced towards anything in Turkey now from my first holiday ever in this amazing country. In particular, our visit to the Canyon, for example: I was so impressed with its raw beauty and to be able to hike while my feet walk in rushing water was a dream under the hot sun. And the facilities available to eat or drink or even buy the right shoes to walk in or any souvenirs, all provided in such a unique way with water all around nice and safe and colourful. In the canyon, we came to a place where I would not have continued further due to my lower back issues and weight but there were hard-hatted guides there and they offered to help. I said no way would I manage but they were amazing and simply provided the physical support needed and I did go further all the way to a most idyllic fresh waterfall under which I stood in total elation that I managed the extra stretch. We made this trip with our own rented car. Another day, we visited Patara beach and its surrounding ruins. That was yet another treasure discovered all at such minimal prices, with service provided everywhere such as food, souvenirs, toilets, parking etc etc. The beach is beautiful, lives upto its reputation, the water so clear and soft. We returned several times just to be there as the sun set, magnificent!

Xanthos (Arnna in Lykian and Kınık today) in “rocky Likya” was the region’s capital and leader of the Likyan League, a confederation of twenty three cities, until, in defeat, it ceded its place variously to Patara and Myra. It’s history goes back to the Homeric past. Today almost all that can be seen is Roman. Entering the ungated site, to the left is Vespasian’s gate and to the right a steel plaque marks the forlorn site of the wonderful Nereid tomb, (Erbinna’s tomb) now in the British museum. A little further and the theatre with its dramatic pillar tombs is perhaps the most famous view in Lykia, there is even a probable relief of the view in a rock tomb in Myra. The ticket office is in the car park. To the right of the car park, looking tiwards the forum, is the Xanthos Stele. This records the deeds of Kherei son of Harpagos whose tomb is believed to be the Harpie Tomb. It also records the Delian league’s general Melasandros’ mission to Xanthos, references to Artaxerxes 2nd (Persian ruler) and an otherwise unknown attack by Spartans. Behind the theatre is the original acropolis. The far left hand corner is part of the original city and its wall, perhaps Homer’s Sarpedon lived here. Crossing the car park again the wonderful, inscription lined street takes you past later. Byzantine remains, a huge basilica and an archbishop’s palace. On a track to the right is the “Dancers” tomb with dancing girls and a dramatic fatal hunting scene. Continuing along the path to the right is a vast necropolis. Up over the wall one climbs to the ‘Roman’ necropolis, a very fine group of house tombs and a huge pillar tomb. The one on the very far right has an inscription in the Lykian language. Just below are the bases of several lost sarcophagai, one, that of Payava, lost to the care of the British Museum. This fabulous World Heritage Site reeks of its three and a half thousand year history, Brutus of “Et tu Brutus” fame besieged and destroyed it as did Alexander the Great and before them, in the 5th century BCE, the Greek general Harpagos. Brutus’s and Alexander’s attacks precipitated mass suicides and burning of all of their possessions only for the city to rise again, repopulated by Xanthians who were from home. From here it is a must to visit the Letoon, the religious centre of the Lykian League with temples, pools and terrapins. The modern agricultural town does not provide much in the way of tourist facilities.

We hired a car from Kalkan headed towards Fethiye where Saklıkent is sign posted. Keep driving past men offering a car park in there restaurant till you reach the car park on left just past the entrance to the canyon it’s self. The car is 5tl about 80 pence. As you walk passed all the stalls selling rubbish is the ticket office for the canyon tickets 6tl the is a short walk along a walkway. When you arrive where the 2 rivers meet my advise is to go right into the clear water where you can see where your placing your feet then move towards the rope crossing the river. If you head straight for the rope it’s where both rivers meet and the current is fast, rocks are bigger and harder to cross. You will get wet and muddling but if you take your time it is well worth the views down the canyon. The photos of people cross is my friends going the hard way over the large rocks